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**bestworkothlo** · 11-05-2010, 06:53 PM

There are various grades of what could be considered downhill bikes, where the basic difference is inverse relationship between how well they climb versus how well they descend. Typically the more geared a bike is to downhill, the more of a pig it will be to get to the top and vice versa.

For anything downhill you want at least 5" of suspension, on something like this:
http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/pr...port_Bike_2007
With a bike like that, you can do light-to-medium difficulty downhill but still have the flexibility for doing cross-country.

For 'real' downhill you want something like:
http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/pr...lite_Bike_2009
It has 8" of suspension which just about the maximum you can get. It will handle downhill nicely but won't do cross-country or climbs without a bit of extra work and won't handle all that well at low speeds.

I just got one a new GT Force 3.0 myself.

11-05-2010, 06:53 PM	#9
bestworkothlo Join Date Oct 2005 Posts 490 Senior Member	There are various grades of what could be considered downhill bikes, where the basic difference is inverse relationship between how well they climb versus how well they descend. Typically the more geared a bike is to downhill, the more of a pig it will be to get to the top and vice versa. For anything downhill you want at least 5" of suspension, on something like this: http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/pr...port_Bike_2007 With a bike like that, you can do light-to-medium difficulty downhill but still have the flexibility for doing cross-country. For 'real' downhill you want something like: http://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/pr...lite_Bike_2009 It has 8" of suspension which just about the maximum you can get. It will handle downhill nicely but won't do cross-country or climbs without a bit of extra work and won't handle all that well at low speeds. I just got one a new GT Force 3.0 myself.
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