[pseusawbappem]

My first telephoto lens

"Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS"



Have the day off tomorrow so hopefully will be able to put it to some good use.

[arindiruppyr]

Grats. Looks awesome. How much did that set you back? I could use something like that, but my funds are too low for that ATM.

[Dodoerabe]

Congrats on your new lens!
Now let's see some photos...

[ljq0AYOV]

Now let's see some photos...

Yeah, I agree. He need to leave work early today and take some shots. I'd love to see the quality it produce.

[abishiots]

Grats. Looks awesome. How much did that set you back? I could use something like that, but my funds are too low for that ATM.

£175, so not too much in terms of a decent range.

Yeah, I agree. He need to leave work early today and take some shots. I'd love to see the quality it produce.

Heh, worked 7-5, then straight from work drive a 100 mile round trip, I'm ready for sleep [surrender]

[igs00r]

Just wait - the obession will only get worse..



(my Sony A700 w/ Sigma 300mm 2.8)

Either way, have fun! [thumbup]

[zlopikanikanzax]

Congrats on your new lens!
Now let's see some photos...

Agreed. Use the telephoto on the girl next door. [rofl]

[loikrso]

Nice. Although I will warn you - you'll be wishing you had more zoom.

I love my 70-200 F4/L - but I was frustrated by the 200mm maximum, which is why I got the 100-400 [rofl]

As your lens has IS - then at 250mm you should be able to handhold sharp shots at about 1/150, even lower if you use a monopod as well. IS is really great on long zoom lenses [thumbup]

I would also suggest that you stop-down to F6.4 when at 220-250mm, as the sharpness will be much better. Personally I would increase the ISO at long zoom ranges, in order to get a higher shutter speed - rather than setting the F.stop to F5.6.

[Olphander]

After all the recent hot and clear weather, today is overcast and raining. Always the way [thumbdown]

[VanDerSmok]

After all the recent hot and clear weather, today is overcast and raining. Always the way [thumbdown]

Stop making excuses and shoot something........ in the rain if you have to.

[Chito]

Ok, here is a test shot. Sadly, I have no cats, but I have a polar bear

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ckerry/2496130941/

I probably wont to able to give the lens a good workout till next week when I will be visiting a safari park.

[fuslssdfaa]

really wish i had IS on my sigma 70-300mm, only realised when i got it how hard it is to steady at the tele end.

quick question for everyone (chris in particular) i'm using a 350d mainly in aperture priority mode, what the best method of AE to use to get a decent shot?

I've been using the point/whole scene type options but nearly all my shots are coming out overexposed, trying to take a picture of my dog is a nightmare as his fur is black so the camera try's to compensate by lowering the shutter speed which blows out all the detail in the rest of the picture....

[radicalvolume]

really wish i had IS on my sigma 70-300mm, only realised when i got it how hard it is to steady at the tele end.

quick question for everyone (chris in particular) i'm using a 350d mainly in aperture priority mode, what the best method of AE to use to get a decent shot?

If you're referring to your 70-300 lens at the tele end, then what you should do is bump up your ISO sensitivity, at some cases even ISO1600 is required to get a reasonable shutter speed in Av mode. look for at least 1/500s for 300mm, combining a stopped aperture, but not too tight, F/10 at most.
What I usually do is aim for even faster shutter speed- at least 1/1000s, which of course freezes the frame, and will eliminate any shakes you might get sometimes with ~1/500s.

I've been using the point/whole scene type options but nearly all my shots are coming out overexposed, trying to take a picture of my dog is a nightmare as his fur is black so the camera try's to compensate by lowering the shutter speed which blows out all the detail in the rest of the picture....

I suggest that you don't use evaluative metering at all. only partial and center-weighted.
about your dog, use partial metering, meter something next to the dog that isn't too bright or dark, then lock the exposure(you can read about exposure time locking in your Camera's manual if you don't get it straight away :] ).
to lock the current exposure(what you metered next to the dog) you must press the ( * ) button which is located at the top-right of your 350D's back panel(the side where the LCD screen is) the symbol should look like a star. pressing it would lock the shutter speed metered at the exact time it's pressed and will stay the same until you recompose, refocus and finally when you take the picture.

Let us know how it goes!

[JackieC]

I suggest that you don't use evaluative metering at all. only partial and center-weighted.
about your dog, use partial metering, meter something next to the dog that isn't too bright or dark, then lock the exposure(you can read about exposure time locking in your Camera's manual if you don't get it straight away :] ).
to lock the current exposure(what you metered next to the dog) you must press the ( * ) button which is located at the top-right of your 350D's back panel(the side where the LCD screen is) the symbol should look like a star. pressing it would lock the shutter speed metered at the exact time it's pressed and will stay the same until you recompose, refocus and finally when you take the picture.

Let us know how it goes!

Alternatively just dial in some -ve or +ve exposure compensation when taking your shot, and check the histogram. Either method will work fine.

[Immampdah]

cheers for the info guys, i didn't realise you could select a point for exposure metering on it's own, i thought it was always tied into the focus.

that last bit setting + or - on the exposure, i remember being able to do that with my powershot (iirc what the camera deems 'correct' in the centre and then plus and minus either side of it to speed up or lower the shutter speed)

with the 350d i set it in the options and rather than going up or down it 'spreads' outwards from the centre point ...i'm not completely sure what that means. Also where can i find the histogram stuff?

[lapyignipinge]

cheers for the info guys, i didn't realise you could select a point for exposure metering on it's own, i thought it was always tied into the focus.

that last bit setting + or - on the exposure, i remember being able to do that with my powershot (iirc what the camera deems 'correct' in the centre and then plus and minus either side of it to speed up or lower the shutter speed)

with the 350d i set it in the options and rather than going up or down it 'spreads' outwards from the centre point ...i'm not completely sure what that means. Also where can i find the histogram stuff?

If I didn't misunderstand you, when it spreads it's actually Auto Exposure Bracketing mode. If you set it to -2 and +2, what it means is that your camera is set to photograph *3* exposures, one exposed at -2, one at 0 and another at +2. The point is to use these 3 for HDR(High Dynamic Range) photos, where you use 2 or more images of the same frame, exposed differently to keep details that would get lost(blown highlights and under exposed\shaded areas) if you only exposed with one normal exposure, at 0.
-So, this is NOT what you want to do. What you want is EC (exposure compensation).
read your manual to see how to compensate exposure. it's only one frame that you set the exposure at, say, -2... or 1. the point is that it's only one frame with one exposure setting. unlike AEB(auto exposure bracketing, as I've described) where you set 3 exposures.

[Svatudjw]

cheers for the info guys, i didn't realise you could select a point for exposure metering on it's own, i thought it was always tied into the focus.

that last bit setting + or - on the exposure, i remember being able to do that with my powershot (iirc what the camera deems 'correct' in the centre and then plus and minus either side of it to speed up or lower the shutter speed)

with the 350d i set it in the options and rather than going up or down it 'spreads' outwards from the centre point ...i'm not completely sure what that means. Also where can i find the histogram stuff?

What you are describing there is AEB (auo exposure bracketing) - which is not what you want.

On my 30D at least - to set a +ve or -ve exposure compensation for the shot you are taking, you half press the shutter, then turn the dial on the back of the camera to set the desired level of exposure compensation. This exposure compensation setting then remains for all future shots.

As for viewing the histogram, - when you are viewing an image on the LCD, hit the INFO button, and you should get one view which has a small image, together with the histogram next to it. If you leave your camera in this view mode - then each time you take a shot, the review image will be with the histogram.

[HenriRow]

What you are describing there is AEB (auo exposure bracketing) - which is not what you want.

On my 30D at least - to set a +ve or -ve exposure compensation for the shot you are taking, you half press the shutter, then turn the dial on the back of the camera to set the desired level of exposure compensation. This exposure compensation setting then remains for all future shots.

As for viewing the histogram, - when you are viewing an image on the LCD, hit the INFO button, and you should get one view which has a small image, together with the histogram next to it. If you leave your camera in this view mode - then each time you take a shot, the review image will be with the histogram.

it's different with the 350D...
If it's the way my 400D works then Exposure compensation is changed by holding the Star button(the same one that locks exposure shutter speed) and turning the dial on the camera to adjust it.

Histogram- when playing back images just press the Display button until you see an image and it's histogram.

Again, hopefully it's the same as my 400D.[beta]