[Unhappu]

the point of this thread is for more or less suggestions


Current performance modlist is as follows

oil catch, 3" cold air intake, agp threaded cold side pipe, engine adn tranny mounts, a 62mm throttle body, full 3" turbo catback exhaust, DSP, n2mb box w/ 2 step and no lift shift, FM wastegate, stage 2 pcm, stage 2 injectors 682 cc's, and 2/3 map and tip sensors, granatelli coil pack and wires, aem digital boost and wideband gauges, 255 lph walbro and bfmic. everything else is spent on cosmetic or suspension. i have the money for mods that i WILL NEED in the end for the big turbo, i am aware of being mostly built for now but am not sure if ive hit that 300 hp checklist, the car runs pretty groggy from low rpms, a 4 yr old could get in my car and notice that i need a tune, its not hard to tell, i dont have a hot side hard piping and thats pretty much all i know about not having switched out under my hood, obviously stock internals and engine components though are stock and left alone. if anybody running big power and dyno proven numbers over 300 or around 300 is willing for some advice or tips...let me know, ive got a stage 2 car with digital boost gauge reading 19 spike, 17 hold...and i feel like a turtle next to other srts at times. help.

also....with all the parts present on this checklist i should have some sort or decent power being put down...would a tune really free up that much hp and tq to wake this sleeping beauty up? once again...help.

[AlexanderPalamayr]

You'll have a pm shortly, gotta get o to a computer

[GenryDont]

I just guessing but I would say 300HPish, with what you have you could easily max out the stock turbo. You could take all those parts and match it to an E2 for about $900ish and be in the 350 hp. Again just a guess I'm no expert but your list is perfect for most any midline turbo including E2

What your AFR's in WOT???

-Slyder

[Unhappu]

You'll have a pm shortly, gotta get o to a computer

lol dont get my hopes up man, pm me than.

and slyder...im reading 11.2 but thats from mid-range, if i start at low rpms, im lean as fuck, the car just runs like ass.

1000-2500 is like 14.2

2500-3500 is dropping down to 10.5 and than

3500-5500 is 11.1 or 11.0, im all over the damn place, i couldnt lean that mixture out for the life of me either

[GenryDont]

and slyder...im reading 11.2 but thats from mid-range, if i start at low rpms, im lean as fuck, the car just runs like ass.
1000-2500 is like 14.2
2500-3500 is dropping down to 10.5 and than
3500-5500 is 11.1 or 11.0, im all over the damn place, i couldnt lean that mixture out for the life of me either

the 14.2 in low rpms is still in closed loop if I am correct
How are you adjusting your boost? With the wg arm or from the DSP menu??
What is your FM wg preloaded at now? You pretty much need to set it to stock. The flapper should be closed and the wg arm should be adjusted to hold that right in that place. ALSO dont' forget you will need to rescale your tune for the FMwg, turbo666, or mindmelt can't recall has a good map for this wg.
I assume you tried pulling fuel from the 2500-3500 rpm range on the DSP to try and lean it out???

The COT function (catalytic overheat temp) is also a factor, but usually only at the shift point. Many people with no cat, me, turn this off ie: cmr tuner turns it off.

[Unhappu]

ya pureadrenaline was telling me i may need a map, i dunno wat u mean though, a map tune for my dsp obviusly, but im not experienced enough to know what to do with it or how to transfer it, my wastegate is preloaded pretty high right now to be honest. i dont even know what its at since im back in iraq, i know i spun it lose quite a bit. and when i adjusted boost i tried back n forth btwn the wga and the dsp, ya i have no cat or anything, just a resonator

[GenryDont]

ya pureadrenaline was telling me i may need a map, i dunno wat u mean though, a map tune for my dsp obviusly, but im not experienced enough to know what to do with it or how to transfer it, my wastegate is preloaded pretty high right now to be honest. i dont even know what its at since im back in iraq, i know i spun it lose quite a bit. and when i adjusted boost i tried back n forth btwn the wga and the dsp, ya i have no cat or anything, just a resonator

1st if you are using the 93 tune with your mods you will not see a good tune! The 93 tune is for a stock SRT. Me or several of the guys here can walk you through the tune install onto your DSP, very simple. Your send them your stock back up file via email, and he emails you a new modified tune with your bolt on's. Every time you reset the wg arm you need to reset your PCM by removing battery cables. I think you will need to set your wg like I mentioned before and use your DSP to adjust boost, do to the fact that you are still on PCM control.
You may want to contact mindmelt for a tune. He is who I'm getting mine from.
I hope that this helps you out a bit.
-Slyder

[Unhappu]

so as for parts u would say im on the right track, its just all about the tune now. the 93 said stock to slightly modded, assumed i was slightly modded for the most part. but ya what do they charge to do the send out of the back tune to receive one back? also is there some sort of list u send ot them of ur parts that u do have so they can adjust it accordingly or wats that all about, i could easily go to aaron at realtuned ive been told but...if i have the fuel and my own piggyback, why not try on my own first ya know.

i appreciate all the advice, unfortunately am back overseas so will have to wait til im back to do ne of this but...its good to know ahead of time at least, drives me nuts everyday over here the kinda money i put in there and how slow it feels.

ive been wanting to get off pcm controlled boost though, it holds me back quite a bit ive been told, its just mostly their to make sure ur motor doesnt go into a meltdown

[fameintatenly]

Oh yeah. I forgot about that...anytime you change something, you need to reset the PCM for the boost tables to be readjusted..that would explain a TON of things..HAHA. I'm just going to find the s3 stuff I need and go that route. I'm tired of trying to find a dick ton of cash to mod this thing. There are so many other cars I'd rather get all sick with.

[GenryDont]

DUDE relax you have all the right parts for some decent power. One of the big things is you will only be able to hit around 300 on stock turbo BUT you should not feel slow. There are some stock cars in the 11's. I know you are back overseas, take that time to read, read, read.

You can do Aaron, or a canned tune from any number of guys that know the DSP. It is very simple I will try to do a video of loading a new map, try. Yes letting them know some of the mods you have they have inputs to enter for those items IE: new duty cycle for the FM wg, the stage 2 injectors is another parameter that will need to be adjusted as with the map/tip sensors needing to be rescaled. All of which they know how to change for the DSP. This needs to be done with CMR software that is why the canned tune is needed.

As Ricky and Joel would tell you, you could max out the stock turbo on a map clamp. With the DSP it is a little more complicated but much more control. Send off some PM's and by that time some of the local guys will have a good handle on the DSP as well. There have been several here that have/are working with it and the usual Guru's (Ricky, Joel, Kevin, Ryan).

How long till your back for good?
later
-Slyder

[Unhappu]

i had no idea u had to disconnect the battery for ur pcm to re-learn the boost, fuck me....no wonder how ever much i adjusted it it seemed the same.....someone please post a huge FAIL picture, lol.

lol, im not upset, just been pulling my hair out cause i assumed iwas gunna come home to a car that ran really hard, instead...it was just really loud, but ya ur right i have a lot of things that are off with my tune with all the mods i have. id have to contact diablo sport obviously to get that sent to them and fixed, but thanx for the info, good to know stuff.

i should be back home in less than 5 months. so still a little bit but not as bad as when i first got here...it was 9....yikes

[GenryDont]

PLUS I can top you 2X's

• a DSP that gave me 6 counts of knock and I couldn't boost over 10psi safely
  $1500 of cams sitting on a shelf in basement

so I feel your pain , thinking of trading the cams for an E2
-Slyder

Contact Mindmelt, turbo666, or Duster360 for a tune just my thoughts, I'll let you know how I like my tune when I get it.

[Aceroassert]

I feel your guyz pain. I'm needing a good tune myself. I'm in the 300HP range for sure, but I'm not hitting it. I can't measure knock, but even if I could I'm not sure what the hell I would do if I had it. Adjust timing? Yeah right - I have no idea what that involves.

It's hard for me to understand this concept that I'm about to un-ravel so maybe someone can explain this to me.

So I have the FM WGA. I have it cranked up to a 20PSI spike, Stage 2 Injectors, 255 Walbro & my A/F are rich even though I'm taking away tons of fuel from the SAFCII. It almost makes me wonder why I bothered with stage 2 injectors and a new fuel pump, because even before those were installed I was still taking away fuel.

1. So how the hell can I make more power?
2. Keep removing fuel from my mapping until my A/Fs are 11.4 - 11.8 all day?
3. If I have KNOCK, what would I do to counter act it?
4. Can I bump the FM WGA up higher for more boost since I'm running rich as hell and have more than enough fuel?
5. I just don't understand the concept of an SAFCII with Stage 2 Injectors and a 255 Walbro if all I'm doing is REMOVING fuel from my mapping.
6. Also, do I even worry about my Map sensor or is it being bypassed by the SAFCII.

I'm hoping I can gain some knowledge and answers, frankly I'm wondering how to make it to the 300's myself, maybe a tune would help, who could professionally tune it? :/

[GenryDont]

1. So how the hell can I make more power?
2. Keep removing fuel from my mapping until my A/Fs are 11.4 - 11.8 all day?
3. If I have KNOCK, what would I do to counter act it?
4. Can I bump the FM WGA up higher for more boost since I'm running rich as hell and have more than enough fuel?
5. I just don't understand the concept of an SAFCII with Stage 2 Injectors and a 255 Walbro if all I'm doing is REMOVING fuel from my mapping.
6. Also, do I even worry about my Map sensor or is it being bypassed by the SAFCII.
I'm hoping I can gain some knowledge and answers, frankly I'm wondering how to make it to the 300's myself, maybe a tune would help, who could professionally tune it? :/

ok no expert here by any means so those with the expertise please chime in and that is a lot of questions my friend .
I think that you just have way to much fuel. You can't pull that much fuel with out getting knock. I thought even with S2 the PCM will pull timing ie giving you knock. How much fuel did you pull? The stock turbo can only push so much air so upping the boost may not be the best solution. Have you tried going back to the stock injectors??

-Slyder

[GenryDont]

Oh yeah. I forgot about that...anytime you change something, you need to reset the PCM for the boost tables to be readjusted..that would explain a TON of things..HAHA. I'm just going to find the s3 stuff I need and go that route. I'm tired of trying to find a dick ton of cash to mod this thing. There are so many other cars I'd rather get all sick with.

Here ya go all set, user: jmu427
Ported and coated Stage 3 manifold (F&F did work)
Turbo was just rebuilt with a steel wheel (F&F again)
Stage 3 O2 housing
Stge 3 WGA
Stage 3 PCM, with toys
Toys bezel, wiring, and sprayer (bought it used, I think everything is there)
Stage 3 install parts (BNIB, can get a list if needed)....all of the above $2600

[Aceroassert]

Originally Posted by Fatal1tyKn1ght 1. So how the hell can I make more power?
2. Keep removing fuel from my mapping until my A/Fs are 11.4 - 11.8 all day?
3. If I have KNOCK, what would I do to counter act it?
4. Can I bump the FM WGA up higher for more boost since I'm running rich as hell and have more than enough fuel?
5. I just don't understand the concept of an SAFCII with Stage 2 Injectors and a 255 Walbro if all I'm doing is REMOVING fuel from my mapping.
6. Also, do I even worry about my Map sensor or is it being bypassed by the SAFCII.
I'm hoping I can gain some knowledge and answers, frankly I'm wondering how to make it to the 300's myself, maybe a tune would help, who could professionally tune it? :/

ok no expert here by any means so those with the expertise please chime in and that is a lot of questions my friend .
I think that you just have way to much fuel. You can't pull that much fuel with out getting knock. I thought even with S2 the PCM will pull timing ie giving you knock. How much fuel did you pull? The stock turbo can only push so much air so upping the boost may not be the best solution. Have you tried going back to the stock injectors??

-Slyder I can't remember exactly - I'd say like 10 -12 points. But I have to, or else I run extremely rich with the S2 injectors and new fuel pump. I know that the guys making 300HP are running S2 Injectors and the Walbro 255, so why would I dial back to S1? I want to know how I can utilize what I have now. Not dial back when it's a requirement of the 300HP check-off list. Going back to S1 injectors isn't a viable option and doesn't make any sense. But I still love you Scott

[Unhappu]

its really relieving to see that other people are in this quest too, cause i felt like i was the only damn one. but anyways, fatality, if u had some way to monitor ur knock, u could adjust that by adjusting WOT spark, but thats only if ur happy with where ur at boost and fuel wise, i have the same issues with my s2 injectors, i run lean in low, and rich in high, were known for high end power, but it sounds similar to my issue of not having proper mapping for the parts ur running

shit i searched over aaron from realtuneds 300 hp thread on srt forums and im absolutely shocked that im still not there...appearantly its easier to buy the parts for 300 hp than it is to actually run it as long as you have proper tools to monitor, also, like slyder was saying earlier, if ur still on pcm controlled boost, it could be messing with u in the long run if ur adjusting boost on ur wga instead of ur dsp or wtvr piggyback device ur using, i thought safc was solely fuel but im not sure, dont own one.

if ur not however, than i dont have any knowledge on that,as far as the confusion with viewing the 300 hp list and ahving the parts but now the power, were in the same boat it seems, for similar or different issues we both have the proper amount of fuel, were just not getting good enough afrs to feel the difference. im sure ricky or joel could help but i dunno where there at. from waht ive read the walbro isnt even necessary for the 300 hp, mostly big turbo upgrades, cause u only need to walbro and return line if ur on stock injectors, our flow rates are high with s2 injectors, plenty of fuel...so i dunno, we will obviously have to look into this more.

once again, if their are spectators viewing this with knowledge, have at it, no ones wrong or right, its a trouble-shooting process it seems now

[Aceroassert]

Dude I totally think we're in the same boat. Only I'm tuning with a SAFCII and you have the DSP. Don't get me wrong, my car has power. Just not as much as I would expect with the mods I have.

1st Gear - Wash (12-13 PSI)
2nd Gear - Chirp, Chirp, Chirp (15-16 PSI)
3rd Gear - Full traction (20-21 PSI)
" " "
" " "

[Unhappu]

so wait...does ur safc actually change other parameteres or simply just fuel? and how do u monitor ur knock? add-on scan gauge? and also, wat kinda boost gauge...digital? analog? brand? lol, sorry just trying to figure out if ur just not running asmuch as u think, thats obv not the source of the problem here but...thinking ur running 21 and it being simple jumpy analogs and it actually being 19 is a big diff, hmmm, wat do u hold to redline? cause my digital shows a climb to 19psi , holds than goes to 15/14 at 6000

[Aceroassert]

so wait...does ur safc actually change other parameteres or simply just fuel? and how do u monitor ur knock? add-on scan gauge? and also, wat kinda boost gauge...digital? analog? brand? lol, sorry just trying to figure out if ur just not running asmuch as u think, thats obv not the source of the problem here but...thinking ur running 21 and it being simple jumpy analogs and it actually being 19 is a big diff, hmmm, wat do u hold to redline? cause my digital shows a climb to 19psi , holds than goes to 15/14 at 6000

SAFCII = Just Fuel
Knock = Not Monitoring
Scan Gauge = Out of budget, would love to borrow one.
Boost Gauge = Analog, though it doesn't "jump around" It's pretty stable, but it's analog so it's not an exact science.
Red Line = I honestly can't remember, it's been awhile since I've done pulls.

My setup is in my signature if you're really curious.