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#21 |
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Nah, you've been able to get the 140 or 170 for years now in England. It would be a brand new car though so I'd imagine any problems like that would be under warranty. Very annoying though. I say go for it. They are quite nippy aswell. EDIT: with a stage 1 remap you will see about 210hp aswell. Stage 1 will not affect the car at all in terms of reliability, but will affect warranty obviously. |
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#22 |
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I say go for it. They are quite nippy aswell. My current car is only about 15-16 months into its lease but we have a new employee who would be happy to take it over. We need to find out if it's as easy as just giving it to him (it seems like it should be as the car is registered to the company, we should just need to transfer the insurance to him on the group policy). Secondly, the new A3 is out soon. I really like the current one though and the black edition has loads of cool bits for very little price increase. My current car is rubbish in the snow, which leads to another consideration. I want the DSG gearbox but it's only available with FWD in the UK on the A3 black edition. I could get the manual with 4WD but I really want the DSG 'box. My mate has an FWD VW Tiguan and I'm not sure that is any better in the snow than my current car so the 4WD would make more sense (we don't get masses of snow, but I'm sick of being disabled when we do). Did I mention how much I want the DSG though? |
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#23 |
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I'd like to, but there are a couple of factors to consider first. |
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#24 |
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I have a seat leon FR DSG (golf gti underneath), petrol though. I would honestly go for a manual next time. Also the DSG in the diesel feels a bit clunky for my liking because of how the engine works. Thats all imo of course. I love my dsg dont get me wrong its great fun, but if i had the choice between manual and 4wd and dsg fwd i would take the manual any day. vag fwd cars are crap in the snow. Unless expensive winter tyres are stuck on it. Still a bit crap. Which DSG do you have? I believe the A3 has the new 7 speed one. I've not tried it though. I might just book a test drive to see what it's like if they have one in. |
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#25 |
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You may very well be right. |
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#26 |
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DSG's are definitely a try before you buy.
Dutchforce, tuning done in a 'best bang for your buck' kind of way is done via a remap. This is done almost entirely by turning up the turbo boost. Hence why non turbo engines gain virtually nothing from a remap in comparison to turbo ones. In the case of these VAG diesels, the 140 and 170 are both different, they aren't just running a different map out the factory, so remapped the 170 will reach more power than the 140. May as well just get the best you can. |
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#27 |
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vag fwd cars are crap in the snow. Unless expensive winter tyres are stuck on it. Still a bit crap. ![]() |
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#28 |
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I had an Astra 1.9 CDTI 150 which was tuned to 212hp 327lb but also had an economy map which was good for over 500 miles to a tank.
I just had to sell it though as front wheel drive is horrid and the power band of the diesel engine sucks plus, nothing then a lump of power for about 1500rpm and then change gear! The torque steer was also unbearable and felt like it was trying to put me in a hedge all the time. Make sure you test drive pretty much everything you are even slightly interested in and don't drive around like an old lady just because the sales person is with you. celtictuning did my remap and it was well worth it for the extra MPGs. As for DSG, the new unit in the BMWs is fantastic, was driving a brand new 650i vert for a week while the M6 was getting a new clutch and the 8 speed box is bloody amazing compared to the SMG in the M6. Just a shame the TT V8 sounds like crap compared to the NA V10! But like I said, Drive everything you can before you buy [thumbup] |
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#29 |
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you should be able to pull together most running costs by asking a dealer or a service station as well as using the factory specs with an adjustment (+10-20% for fuel consumption, for all cars usually)
I would recommend you ask at the same time the prices for some common spare parts (brakes, spark plugs, mabe something bigger like the transmission). Audis are said to have high costs for parts, but if you put together a list and compare you know what you are getting in to. No car should be bought without using Excel before. |
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#30 |
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#31 |
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you should be able to pull together most running costs by asking a dealer or a service station as well as using the factory specs with an adjustment (+10-20% for fuel consumption, for all cars usually) I was more concerned with how it is in the real world as I've never had an Audi before. I used to have a golf which was a bit knackered after about 7 years (or maybe 6, can't remember) but there were no major complaints. |
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#33 |
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#34 |
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It has a lot of similarities to my car (Volkswagon Golf TDI). Which I believe they both have the similar engines.
My running costs aren't very much. I just hit 30k and all my oil changes and servicing has been free so far. Although the next one is going to hit hard because I have to change the tranny oil in my 40k, Fuel costs for me is cheap. I usually do 500-550 miles between fills (mostly city driving). and I spend roughly $100-130/month on fuel. I also add in a little B100 (Bio diesel) to help keep the pumps lubricated. If your High Pressure pump goes out cause of bad fuel, it's a $10k repair (there's been a few mishaps with this here in the states. Our diesel isn't as regulated as it is in Europe and it's much easier to get a bad batch of Diesel that doesn't have the proper lubrication rating). The B100 costs the same as regular Diesel and I pay about $20 every 3 months or so for it. Servicing the TDI's is a bit more expensive. You have to use a specific oil, and it's not the cheaper stuff. So don't be surprised to pay a bit more for oil changes. If you get a car with a DSG transmission, you have to change the fluid every 40k miles and the fluid is pricey. I think just the supplies alone cost somewhere around $120-130, and that's even if you do it yourself. And if you do, you also need special tools. Also, If you like to work on your own car. a VAG-COM is an absolute must for VW and Audi cars. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/ I bought one for my car and couldn't imagine not owning one. Changing certain fluids requires you reset certain values in the computer, so you either need to own one, or you need to know someone with one. |
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#35 |
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I have an A4, the 220bhp 2.0 petrol turbo and the insurance is cheap insured with Audi themselves. £500 a year, and I'm 26 +3 points. Most insurers want about double that.
They also do fixed price servicing: Major service £269 Interim service £149 Cam belt £399 Brake pads & discs (front or rear) £249 Brake pads (front or rear) £129 Clutch (quattro®) £849 Clutch (non quattro®) £649 Brake fluid change £49 Front Wiper Blades £39 * Privately owned Audi vehicles over 36 months old from date of registration. Up to and including 2.0 litre engines for A2, A3, A4, A5, A6, TT and Q5. I think the earlier 2.0 diesels had possible fuel pump and balance shaft issues. Newer ones better. |
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#36 |
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uhm, what do you want to hear ? |
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#37 |
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I have an A4 Avant Tdi 130-6 speed, its now 6 years old and on 102,000 miles. I'm fortunate that my mate has his own garage business so I get my servicing and repairs at mates rates but as for reliability you can't fault an Audi. my only gripe with the car in the years I've owned it has been the electrics, the drivers window having just failed (the cable that control the window has snapped) and one of the rear parking sensors is a bit dodgy now. Other than that I can't fault the car and in maybe another year I will be replacing it with a new model but I'll be honest, I love the car that much I may just run it into the ground, which looking at the age of some the A4's where I live could be a very long time off yet!
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#38 |
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Just general stuff, do people feel they are expensive cars to run, need servicing too much, eat tyres etc etc. Not looking for specifics right now but thanks anyway. |
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#39 |
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They dont need servicing more often than other cars, its just a little bit more expensive if you do it at an Audi garage. Just go to an indipendent one, and you have the same servicing costs. Unless you buy a new one of course. Then you have to go to Audi only, if you dont want to void your warranty. But I guess that goes for any other (european) auto maker too. As an aside: has nobody here actually heard a question like "what's your car like to run?" before? I find that unbelievable. |
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