What engine is in your truck?
If it's a diesel, check out what Gale Banks has to offer.
Depending on your state, there may be hassles with the emissions BS - best check.
Hot wire or film airflow meters are known to have some issues with oiled filters - the oil may get on them and cause erroneous metering.
A GOOD induction setup can have significant benefits, more so if the vehicle is working hard.

you why horrible so prick be time all [cursing]

they sound alright, but are only any good at all if they are in an airbox, or on a ram pipe or are located somewhere where they air they take in is cool. other wise they are probably doing more harm than good. sometimes if they're installed sat in the hot engine bay you can tell straight away if they aren't working properly. you can quite often feel flat spots.

[rofl] LMAO ...
thank the lord you have a sense of humor [thumbup]

Sorry about my CRAP english [no] it will never make sense.........

you don't have to apologize to me matey im English and my English is probably worse than yours at least youve bothered learning a different language.

It'll make some difference when your ECU will be reprogrammed. Else it'll only do something about the sound and not so much about performance.

The ECU regulates the engine, with a powerfilter air will be easier to get into the engine, but hardly does anything when a computer code is checking all of the factory parameters.

K&N and all cotton gauze K&N clones suck. Simply hold it up to the light and look how much light they let through. It has been proven time and time again that these type filter do a terrible job at what they are actually intended to do and thats filter the air the engine breaths in. If you can outright see light through the filter which you can with K&N and clones then its not doing its job properly. This has been proven over and over with the use of used oil analysis showing high silicon content from engines equiped with K&N air filters. If you want to wear your engine out faster for a whole extra 1-2hp (thats being optimistic) then by all means be my guest. If you want the best of both worlds then continue reading.


Amsoil Ea air filters are the best for both performance and filtering ability that money can buy. They require no oil and they can be blown out and reused.

Click this link and near the top you will see a drop down menu. Just drop it down and select air and it will bring up the air filters.
https://www.amsoil.com/a/nanofiber-synthetic-oil-filter

Sweet, so now what i'm thinking i should do is get THIS intake since it does at least have a heat shield and then toss the crappy filter out and get an AMSOIL filter to replace it THEN get THIS to provide nice cold air right to the new filter...

With all that i think id spend around $200 and possibly have a better setup than you can just buy in a single kit.
Thoughts?

well.... now looking around that AIR RAM site i see they have an intake system for $145 that has a shield and i can add the cold air scoop for $50 with free shipping for a total of $195... that sounds pretty good to me, altho it will probably come with a sh*t filter but that can be replaced with something better i suppose.

So it would be this
http://www.airram.com/productphotos/large/2394.jpg

plus this
http://www.airram.com/productphotos/large/2437.jpg



i think thats a good combo?

I don't recommend any oil type air filter on a car that uses a MAS

The oil over time will get pulled in and slowly gum up the MAS which will throw off it's readings.

I personally use an AEM Dryflow filter on my CAI. It's recommended by quite a number of tuners out there.

well I just had the exhaust redone (uploading video to youtube now so i can show you guys)
so to finish the "breating" part i figured i would want to get a new intake that was not as restrictive. When i look at the stock on i just go... WTF were they thinking? lol

You used the word, "pants" to describe something shitty once and I stole that and use it every once in a while in plain conversation. You are a linguist to me. http://www.discussworldissues.com/fo...es/tongue1.gif

If your like me and have a turbo it doest matter how hot the air coming in is, its going to be really hot by the time it comes out the turbo, so dropping the filter somewhere inside the engine bay is fine. Get a good intercooler and let it do its job. as for most other cars the cooler air will make a bit of difference, but you will gain just as much by doing a mod to the air temp sensor to trick it into thinking its always cold outside, which causes it to advance the timing a few degrees. Only real downside to this on the majority of cars is possible knocking in the summer when it gets hot, but you can resolve that by running a higher octance fuel. If your car relies on the temp sensor in any way to engage the secondary air injection system to help warm the car up to operating temp (primarily needed in the winter in colder environments) then this can also cause problems.

as for the heat wrap for headers, I dont suggest doing that at any point in time ever on headers. While it will result in your headers not putting as much heat into the engine bay, in time this will just result in excess condensation building up between them and the header when the car is shut down as the car cools down. In an exposed header this condensation doesnt form because its too hot and it evaporates. When wrapped it usually results in bad rusting over time. If you really want to get rid of the heat in the engine bay get a good set of headers that are ceramic coated inside and out. Less heat and more performance.

People tend to want to knock lots of little mods you can do to a car that gain 2hp at a time, but if you do enough of those mods then they add up eventually. Other things that can help are bypassing the coolant line that runs through the throttle body, filing down the egr valve if it protrudes into the head of the car, removing any form of vics or vcts (or whatever name your car uses) if present this is the system that allows your car to swith from the long runners to short runners on the head of the vehicle at different rpm's. Needed on most cars to provide good low end torque, but just interfere with air flow and cause turbulance in the airflow on a well modded vehicle by often as much as 30%, port and polish the throttle body, on some engines such as the ls1 you can swap 2 of the coil packs around (I believe the #3 and #8 but could be wrong) and this provides a measurable and some say noticeable gain. I say completely avoid these stand alone tuning boxes like the ones hypertech sells, or any kind of piggy back unit unless you are trying to get the most you can out of a completely stock system. The only kind of vehicle these truly work well on are diesels. Otherwise take it someone and get a proper tune or buy the software and cables for a laptop and learn yourself (this is what I have done). Someone that knows what they are doing can mod your vehicle well based only on the mods done to the vehicle, and few good hard runs up and down the track (aka the road in front of your house). And ask the person if the tune makes usable power or makes dyno power. a lot of people are good at dyno tuning only to find later your car runs like crap on the road.

I'd have to agree with a most of those. But I don't agree about a couple of suggestions.

Coolant lines on the throttlebody is beneficial during cold weather startups. And I know on my car, removing these gives practically no performance increase. If someone is only going to do a couple of simple mods, there is no real need to remove those lines.

Also, Greddy makes a good piggyback unit. As long as it's tuned right, it can act just as good as some standalone units. Here's a descent guide to prevent ECU override. Maybe not as good as the high end units like an Apexi PowerFC. There's pros and cons. You lose emissions with a PowerFC, so when it's time to get your emissions done, you have to swap back to the OEM ECU. You don't get this problem with piggybacks.

Another neat little item is a cam controller if you have variable cams. Like a CamCom. With my car, the Stage 2 NA cams lose low end torque without adjustments. A Camcom can override the ECU settings and gain that low end torque back, plus be able to tune the cams for high end horsepower.

haha, now we're getting into pro stuff.
Just FYI this is a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 4.7L V8

Now there are a few things i have planned... how long it takes depends on the $$$ as always
I plan on getting shorty headers to replace the stock manifolds, mainly since i've got a manifold leak already, since im down there may as well upgrade them. I also plan on gettin a set of mild cams that are not supposed to require a tune to run. I may also get a superchips tuner after all that.

don't use piggy backs...

get it properly remapped or at the worst use a blue fin (that if your quite happy with the possibility of turning your car into a vegetable if you **** it up )

As I said before. Piggybacks are fine if you get a good unit. The primary problem with most piggybacks are the OEM ECU overriding it. But I have already posted a link on how it is possible to tune one and prevent ECU overriding.

And some OEM ECU's can not be remapped and must use a piggyback or swapped out for a complete aftermarket ECU.