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#1 |
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I've always been someone who uses a 8 iron around the green because I never thought of myself as skilled enough with a wedge to use it other than out of a sand trap. But I was trying my new 56* CG15 out and I was doing as well or even better than with my 8 iron - and this is with never even trying such shots before. I put the ball back in the stance and got a nice low flight and had the ball check up. I found that the more forceful swing required with the sand wedge was easier to hit consistently than a 'touchy' 8 iron. Plus it was a hell of a lot of fun.
Is a sand wedge a reasonable option from 20 yards and in? Or do I need to invest in a gap wedge/lob wedge? PR |
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#2 |
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#3 |
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I've always been someone who uses a 8 iron around the green because I never thought of myself as skilled enough with a wedge to use it other than out of a sand trap. But I was trying my new 56* CG15 out and I was doing as well or even better than with my 8 iron - and this is with never even trying such shots before. I put the ball back in the stance and got a nice low flight and had the ball check up. I found that the more forceful swing required with the sand wedge was easier to hit consistently than a 'touchy' 8 iron. Plus it was a hell of a lot of fun. |
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#4 |
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I've always been someone who uses a 8 iron around the green because I never thought of myself as skilled enough with a wedge to use it other than out of a sand trap. But I was trying my new 56* CG15 out and I was doing as well or even better than with my 8 iron - and this is with never even trying such shots before. I put the ball back in the stance and got a nice low flight and had the ball check up. I found that the more forceful swing required with the sand wedge was easier to hit consistently than a 'touchy' 8 iron. Plus it was a hell of a lot of fun. |
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#6 |
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I've always been someone who uses a 8 iron around the green because I never thought of myself as skilled enough with a wedge to use it other than out of a sand trap. But I was trying my new 56* CG15 out and I was doing as well or even better than with my 8 iron - and this is with never even trying such shots before. I put the ball back in the stance and got a nice low flight and had the ball check up. I found that the more forceful swing required with the sand wedge was easier to hit consistently than a 'touchy' 8 iron. Plus it was a hell of a lot of fun. |
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#7 |
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56* wedge.. I see it's a Cleveland, which means it's probably close to a blade.. In my opinion, you can use any bladed wedge around the green for any kind of shot as long as you have the right technique.. Closing or opening the face, putting a solid strike on it.. It's all about repetition around the putting green! |
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#8 |
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I've always been someone who uses a 8 iron around the green because I never thought of myself as skilled enough with a wedge to use it other than out of a sand trap. But I was trying my new 56* CG15 out and I was doing as well or even better than with my 8 iron - and this is with never even trying such shots before. I put the ball back in the stance and got a nice low flight and had the ball check up. I found that the more forceful swing required with the sand wedge was easier to hit consistently than a 'touchy' 8 iron. Plus it was a hell of a lot of fun. I recently had a neck injury that precluded me from making full swings for almost 6 months... So I just worked on my short game 30 yards and in with a 52,56,60 wedge set. My original fear was probably what you are facing... the 8 iron won't get skulled as often as a SW but you can hit the SW firmer and get it to stop... Do a little experiment on a practice green... Figure out your carry/roll ratios for every club in your bag (I mean every iron down to the 4) when used with a chipping motion. (Forget about retail therapy for your game to begin with just go with what you have) Hit 5 good consistent chips with each club to a nearby point just on the green (say 5 yards in front of you) and then measure how far they roll out. You might find that a 60 wedge goes 2/3rds carry 1/3 roll a 56 1/2 1/2 52 3/7 4/7th PW 1/3 2/3rds 8i 1/4 3/4 etc... (this all depends on your chipping motion and how fast the green is of course) You'll learn a lot about what each club can accomplish You'll learn how to hit consistent chips You're short game will get better in a hurry. Alternatively (or in addition) try using each club to hit 5 balls close to the same target say 25 or 30 yards away landing the ball at a spot that you figure out from the above analysis... Finally before a round see if you can chip to 5yds 10yds 15yds 20yds 25yds and 30yds (successively getting longer with the same club) and repeat with the clubs you plan to use around the green. This will tune your short game for the day and give you confidence that you can strike the ball consistently regardless of the distance needed. (plus it only gives you a false sense of security to chip to one target over and over as you will be faced with many different distances while playing and your second chip to the same target will almost always be better than the first) Remember practicing with your most lofted club on the thinnest lies will get your striking honed most quickly as this shot has the least tolerance for error. Work on these kinds of shots first and the others (fluffier lies lower trajectory) will seem easy by comparison. Good luck! See the image I've attached for an example of the little experiment I was describing (I measured distances as a full pace of my stride). I have to say, practicing this way has made me come to appreciate short game work and how much fun it is to chip the ball close. (This is where the most strokes can be shaved after all) I sometimes prefer it to actually playing a round. (It's cheaper, more rewarding (seeing balls get close to the hole), and doesn't take 4.5 hours of your time). Luckily now I'm able to hit full shots and last Friday played my first 18 since last July... When it comes to using my shortgame work on course, I tend not to "calculate" explicitly but choose clubs to chip with on the general trend that I have discovered in this process and then hit it with good tempo. I find that whenever my rhythm is on my chips are close even though I'm not "figuring out" exactly where to land the chip or compensating for up or downslope etc. Hope this helps. http://www.flickr.com/photos/sangora...in/photostream |
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#11 |
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I use a SW - when it's called for. But more often I use a GW, or a PW, or an 8I. I use what the shot requires. I generally chip with a putting motion, grip and stance and I usually use a club that will get the ball to clear whatever fringe or other "non-putting-green" grass lies ahead and then get rolling as quickly as possible. So that could be anything from a wedge all the way down to a 2-iron. |
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#13 |
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From the fringe, 9 iron if not putter. Anything else depends on the lie and green to work with...
52 degree with decent lie and lots of room for the ball to roll/uphill. 56 degree with decent-bad lie and some space for the ball to roll. 60 degree with decent-bad lie and little space for the ball to release/downhill. |
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#14 |
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#15 |
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I use my 49* 90% of the time from 100 yards in. I've been playing it so long I know how to hit it for almost all situtations. I do use my higher lofted wedges when the situation dictates: no green to work with, having to get it up and down in a short distance, etc. You can find one club you like and adapt it to many different situations, or use different clubs for different situations. The choice is yours.
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#17 |
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#18 |
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#20 |
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Thanks for all the great responses so far, this is a fantastic site. I going to work on my chipping game hard with my 56, PW and 8i. I need to make getting up and down from 20 yards the rule, not the exception. Like one poster alluded to, I think practice therapy will be more effective right now than retail therapy.
One more ? - When using the 8i do you still put the ball on the back foot? |
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