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KlaraNovikoffaZ 04-27-2011 04:37 PM

Integrating New dog with current dog
 
Hey folks,

I'm just looking for some advice regarding integrating a new dog (7 months old) with our current dog (15 months old). This potential new dog is coming from a rescue and will be flown in to us from another province. I would like to introduce the two dogs on neutral ground and not in our home. We are thinking of a local ball field that is fenced in and not being used this time of the year. How long should we allow them to play before bringing them home? I know to never leave them alone together without being crated but I'd love to have any tips on how to make this initial meeting less stressful for the dogs. Thanks!

LongaDonga 04-27-2011 09:08 PM

Don't allow loose play the very first meeting.

First walk around on leash without the dogs interacting and then work up to introducing them on leash.

In the household I would crate and rotate for at least a week or two. This allows the new dog to acclimate and the current to get used to new dog without having to compete with it or interact with it.

In fact with my old roomie, we didn't even allow her older RR/Lab mix and the 6 month old RR to interact until Chicago had been in the house nearly a week. We did on leash non-interactive walks to "introduce" them (they were also introduced at the shelter), then crated and rotated for a week before loosening up to a modified version of that, and whenever Chicago was outside the crate for those first couple weeks he was tethered to one of us. It went very very smoothly considering that we thought there would be no way in hell Lynley could ever live with another male dog.

Lily on the other hand, got to interact with Chicago from the outset. She's a total mom dog from a very social mix and is good with everyone except competing pushy bitches on her turf. So there was no acclimation for her and the male puppy.

When my friend's mom got Scout (who is with me now obviously) she met Lily first, on leash, on neutral ground, and we went for an on leash walk together (the two dogs and four people). Lily was fine with her then. Then I went and picked up the RR boys (with Lily) and we met up with them at an elementary school ground that we hardly ever take the dogs to. On leash at first then let the boys and Lily off for some team fetch. Problems only came later, all the initial meeting were good.
Lily was royally pissed that another girl was living with HER boys. http://www.pitbull-chat.com/images/smilies/rolleyes.png
So that was fun to police.
And Chicago matured to be a pushy asshole with a very low threshold in regards to pushy effusive dogs with awful body language like Scout. So that was fun also, especially since they didn't really manage the dogs appropriately most of the time. Scout has a scar on her nose from Chico.
He still has a very low threshold with her.
He and Lily are two peas in a pod though.

I tightened up the hell out of that ship when I went to dogsit last May/June/July. My friend's mom had moved to OR with plans of coming back for Scout (clearly that didn't pan out) and my friend was working her summer gig in MT. I basically rotated dogs, only having 2-3 of them together at any given time. Luckily between two fenced yards and the dog crates, that was easy as pie. Lily, Lynley, and Scout got on just fine together. Chicago was the problem because my friend had allowed him to be a spoiled brat and he was being an insecure asshole because of it. I exercised him by himself, usually at night so as to avoid other dogs, and took away all bed priveledges and made him sleep in his crate. It helped a lot.

Lily hates sharing me. It was a whole different kettle of fish when Scout belonged to me rather than just being a part of the extended pack. She was a real asshole for months and months and yet would be possessive of Scout if Scout and my parent's dog Will were playing. Real weird dichotomy there. Honestly even with supervision and never leaving them loose alone together (Scout can never be alone alone, she freaks out if another dog isn't within sight... so annoying...) it took Scout finally throwing Lily down and holding her there for Lily to give her some respect. Actually Lily would have started shit again right after that matter of seconds tussel, but I wouldn't let her. I shudder to think if that sort of thing had gone down with "pit bull" dogs... But anyway since then their relationship has improved a lot and oddly they are much more closely bonded than they were before. And Lily stopped being an ass, which is nice. I do not consider that time as letting them "work it out"... trust me I was right on top of that shit and I do not ever recommend letting dogs "work it out". It started over a rodent hole in the ground. http://www.pitbull-chat.com/images/smilies/rolleyes.png

Only reason I relate these stories is so you'll have an idea of what can go on during intro-ing a new dog and multi-dog households in general.

I hope you have smooth sailing and enjoy your new dog! http://www.pitbull-chat.com/images/smilies/smile.png

KlaraNovikoffaZ 04-27-2011 09:28 PM

Thank you so much for the reply Monkey! When you speak of rotating them, do you mean that each gets moved to the other's crate? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

AndyPharmc 04-27-2011 11:02 PM

She just means that some are out while others are in (crates).

BEST thing to do is take it slowly. Also...I reccomend for ANY new dog in ANY new home:

Two Week Shutdown

"The First Two Weeks – Give’em a Break!"

So, what are you planning to do (or did you do) when you finally get your new family member?

"Well, we plan to go to Petsmart to get a new collar, leash, bowls, toys, etc. and of course we want to show everyone our great new family member! We might also stop by the in-laws place. Oh and then there is my best friend who has a dog too and we KNOW they would get along beautifully! And then when we go home, we're gonna let her out with our other three dogs and the cats so they can meet one another and wear each other out playing."

Say what!? I'm sure that sounds like a very reasonable thing to do, especially if you've just obtained an adult dog; but, think about this for a minute: Does this new dog *know* you? Yeah, it knows you are a human and I'm pretty sure the dog enjoyed all the belly rubs and hugs and scritches you had to dish out. BUT, does this dog know you will feed it? Does this dog know you will protect it? Does this dog you are a leader?

You might feel inclined to answer yes to these questions but step back for a minute and think how you might feel if you were never going to go back to your "home" and that you were expected to live with new people who didn't understand your language.

What if these new people took you to all sorts of different places expecting you to greet everyone happily and feel comfortable with an overload of attention all at one time? How might you feel after all of that, to have to go to your new "home" and interact with a bunch of strangers? It's very likely that you'd feel exhausted, overwhelmed, and ready to retreat but really have no place to go to. You might begin to act out and yell at people for coddling you and insisting that you do this and do that.

Well, many dogs are put in the very same position and the only way they know how to get their point across is to act out or "misbehave." The dog may act out by nipping at children, growling when being moved off furniture, starting fights with the other animals in home, etc.

So, what IS the "Two Week Shutdown?"

Let me go ahead and preface this by saying that "two weeks" is a general guideline of the amount of time you should follow this program. Some dogs will settle in faster, some will take longer. It all depends on the individual dog and their needs. PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR DOG. They will "tell" you when they've had enough.

During the initial two week period, the dog is taking in the new environment, the people in it, and is learning who the "leaders" are in the new group, be it animal or human. Remember the dog has NO idea WHO you are. Pushing the dog to accept new things too fast makes you (who should be the leader) look like you have no control over situations. This makes the dog feel that THEY have to make decisions for themselves and you DON'T want that.

Dogs who feel the need to make decisions for themselves are the ones who "act out" or "misbehave." It is your responsibility to the dog and as an owner to make sure the dog looks to you for direction and guidance. Putting the dog in new situations with a person they don't yet know to trust fully is setting the dog up for "failure."

Stacie says it best here:

When you first met your "spouse or significant other”, you were on your best behavior, you were not relaxed enough to be all of yourself, were you? Just think of the things you do physically once you get to KNOW a person, you wouldn't run up to a stranger and hug them and squeeze them! Imagine, if on the first date, this new person, was all over you touching you and having their friends hug you and pat you on the head, and jostle your shoulders, looked in your mouth then he whisked you off to another strangers home and they did the same thing. Would you think this person normal and SAFE? Wouldn't you feel invaded and begin to get a bit snarky or defensive yourself? Wouldn't you think to push these people away for obviously your date is out of their mind, as they aren't going to save you from these weirdoes!! Yet we do this very thing to our dogs, and then get upset or worried that they aren't relaxed and accepting of EVERYTHING instantly!


In providing the dog two weeks to "shut down," you are allowing the dog time to see and hear you and the sounds and routines of your home.
  • Crate the dog in a room by itself. Dogs are sensory animals and pick up on a lot without having to visually SEE it.

  • Leash the dog at all times when not crated. Yes, this means leash the dog to you in the house (this helps a lot with bonding too) and out in the yard (use of a long line is A-OK here http://www.pitbull-chat.com/images/smilies/smile.png ). The dog needs to start learning that YOU are its everything. Letting the dog have full freedom of your home and yard is just telling him to do whatever he pleases and right now, he doesn't have that right because it's YOUR house. You need to remember that so he learns to respect it.

  • Do little to no training at all. Interactions with the new dog at this point should be positive so as to strengthen the bond. This is another GREAT reason to have the dog leashed to you at all times because, how can they get into trouble if they are right there with someone *ALL* the time.

  • No walks, car rides, pet store excursions, other animals (unless crated next to them) etc. Obviously, trips to the vet are excluded from this. The dog can live for two weeks without going on a walk. Walks provide an over abundance of stimuli and are VERY stressful, especially when the dog still has no reason to trust you. Again, read Stacie's original words on this subject:

    The dog may react to something and we start correcting it with the leash and we just installed a VERY STRESSFUL moment to the dog in what should be a fun and learning walk. TEACH the dog by doing the shut down, that YOU are the one to look to, that you are now here for the dog! He can trust in you and look to you for guidance. Then you can venture out into new situations one at a time, the dog knows he can trust in his new humans and can relax under the fair guidance of his new leaders!

  • Allow the dog 20-30 minute intervals of time in and out of the crate, AFTER exercise/yard times. For instance, take the dog out for 20-30 minutes, then crate the dog for about 20-30 minutes. The dog is not crated for an excessive amount of time and still gets to learn you and the house hold. As time progresses, the intervals can be increased as the dog relaxes to help the dog adjust to a more accurate routine.

  • Ignore crying and/or barking. If you run to the dog each time they bark, whine, or cry, you are teaching the dog that doing those things gets your attention. The dog must learn to be secure when you are not there.

  • Refrain from introducing the dog to resident pets. You don't want the dog to bond to another dog without bonding to you first! Crating the dogs side by side will help them get used to one another but GREATLY limit any interactions for the first two weeks. As the dog begins to relax more and look to you more for direction, introduce the dogs/pets slowly. My personal recommendation is to keep the initial introductions VERY short. 10-15 minutes at a time. Supervise ALL the time. Increase the time by small amounts daily.
You will notice a HUGE difference in your new dog within these two weeks! You will see a smile start to come out. You will see more goofy quirks come out.

You'll also begin to get a glimpse of behaviors you will want to correct with training. But, you will have a healthy start in training your dog because you've given the dog a chance to get to know you and trust in your guidance and direction!

Do you need a little more coaxing about why this method works so well? Stacie has supplied some pictures of dogs that have come through her home, as well as us. The difference in the dogs' facial expressions will amaze you!

The main point to remember: SLOW DOWN! Don't push your new dog to accept many different things and give the dog the opportunity to get to know you. Two weeks may seem like a long time, but its very short in comparison to the next 8 or so years you will have with your new companion!

FOSTER HOMES AND the “TWO WEEK SHUT DOWN”

We as foster homes have the added responsibility to find and expose our dog’s true personalities. We also have the responsibility of making our foster home a mud platter, as not to make the dogs adoptive home seem like less of a home than ours. We cannot make our foster dog a part of our home, give it too much freedom and allow it to become a total part of our world. This can lead to a set up in the new adoptive home of nervous behavior, displays of separation anxiety, barking, whining, and destructive behavior.

We want the adoptive home to be that much better than our world in the foster homes. By following the two week shut down into the foster home, then carrying that over to the adoptive home, the dog falls into a safe and familiar pattern, and each home has allowed the dog the moment to relax and check out the next new world. Foster dogs come from various places, some are abused, abandoned, turned in, running loose, etc, they land into the pound which is a stressful environment, then they rush into a life in our homes, and then once again into the adoptive home. Our goal must be to allow the dog the time to adjust and set him or her up for a forever home with less a chance of returning to the pound or foster homes.


Still aren't quite convinced? You MUST see the Dog Gallery to see JUST how much of a difference two weeks can make!

LongaDonga 04-27-2011 11:47 PM

Yes, thanks gatorpit. And good idea posting the two week shut down! http://www.pitbull-chat.com/images/smilies/smile.png

KJnbceja 04-28-2011 12:01 AM

Great information!

AndyPharmc 04-28-2011 12:29 AM

I wish it would be made a sticky, lol. It's pretty handy.

KlaraNovikoffaZ 04-28-2011 03:09 PM

I am fully on board with the two week shut down! I want to make this as stress free as possible for both dogs. Thanks for the advice!


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