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**bUqLfXRI** · 01-31-2009, 07:16 AM

If the camera supports it, you can also use spot metering, which will tend to be more accurate than the overall average/area metering.

Because of our dark bogu and the the fact that indoor lighting is relatively stable, I think setting exposure manually (with periodic readjustments) is the way to go. A spot meter, in particular, might meter on a dark doh, or a medium tsuba, or a light shinai, or even a bright mengane.

You could set +1.5 exposure compensation and try to always meter on a doh or dark keikogi and then recompose as necessary, but that seems to me to be unnecessarily complex.

I think michaelm's advice was good, with the additional comment that--since you're shooting digital--just take a couple of shots after setting the exposure, check the exposure on the LCD, and adjust as necessary. If it's too dark, just increase the exposure and try again.

01-31-2009, 07:16 AM	#11
bUqLfXRI Join Date Oct 2005 Posts 579 Senior Member	If the camera supports it, you can also use spot metering, which will tend to be more accurate than the overall average/area metering. Because of our dark bogu and the the fact that indoor lighting is relatively stable, I think setting exposure manually (with periodic readjustments) is the way to go. A spot meter, in particular, might meter on a dark doh, or a medium tsuba, or a light shinai, or even a bright mengane. You could set +1.5 exposure compensation and try to always meter on a doh or dark keikogi and then recompose as necessary, but that seems to me to be unnecessarily complex. I think michaelm's advice was good, with the additional comment that--since you're shooting digital--just take a couple of shots after setting the exposure, check the exposure on the LCD, and adjust as necessary. If it's too dark, just increase the exposure and try again.
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