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**BadbarmrapBef** · 02-08-2009, 07:53 AM

You might also try setting your exposure settings first. The dojos (usually a sports hall over here) are most of the time very evenly lit. From a photography standpoint there's also very little light. I have one of these whibal cards that I use for a white balance reference shot (I shoot raw) and unless they start changing all the lights, that should be good for the whole session.

Then I just experiment until I get the right exposure using the environment as a target. The dark outfits (black hakama/gi) tend to push your exposure meter in the wrong direction (longer exposure times and grey outfits). So with the camera in manual shiftmode (so I can adjust shutterspeed to the max with lenses that do'nt have a fixed aperture or to get a different effect) i only have to concern myself with framing and timing the shot.
And despite my camera having built in stabilisation that means some blurry shots.

Only way to get to higher shutter speeds is a faster lens (bigger aperture as mentioned above like 1.8 or 1.4. Downside is very shallow depth of field), increase iso (and introduce noise), start using a seriously big flash gun (regular ones don't reach far enough and it might annoy the people you're photographing) or take everybody outside into the sun (which will take quite a bit of effort on your part)

02-08-2009, 07:53 AM	#33
BadbarmrapBef Join Date Oct 2005 Posts 514 Senior Member	You might also try setting your exposure settings first. The dojos (usually a sports hall over here) are most of the time very evenly lit. From a photography standpoint there's also very little light. I have one of these whibal cards that I use for a white balance reference shot (I shoot raw) and unless they start changing all the lights, that should be good for the whole session. Then I just experiment until I get the right exposure using the environment as a target. The dark outfits (black hakama/gi) tend to push your exposure meter in the wrong direction (longer exposure times and grey outfits). So with the camera in manual shiftmode (so I can adjust shutterspeed to the max with lenses that do'nt have a fixed aperture or to get a different effect) i only have to concern myself with framing and timing the shot. And despite my camera having built in stabilisation that means some blurry shots. Only way to get to higher shutter speeds is a faster lens (bigger aperture as mentioned above like 1.8 or 1.4. Downside is very shallow depth of field), increase iso (and introduce noise), start using a seriously big flash gun (regular ones don't reach far enough and it might annoy the people you're photographing) or take everybody outside into the sun (which will take quite a bit of effort on your part)
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