General Discussion Undecided where to post - do it here. |
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![]() Leave a meter at the bottom of the steps. I know waves will wash pebbles over the last few steps, and that's fine. ![]() The steps should be no steeper than 45 degrees--but they don't need to be long and shallow. Having more than a meter at the top of the steps is fine and is, in fact, desireable. ![]() |
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If you're talking about the laundry room shown in the other thread, here's what's going on.
Right now, it's being built as a secure storage area. Soon, a wooden front with a door wide enough to take the cement mixer will be built. As the project is being finished, the wooden wall will be replaced with a cement wall with a normal-size door. |
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Oh, memories of childhood...
My brother (know it all 16 year old in calculus) and my dad (failed basic math in highschool) arguing over how to build the stairs going into the addition we were building. Heath (brother) doing the maths, Dad cutting boards according to some book's recommendations. Neither worked. My suggestion is what worked then: Lay a piece of plywood at the angle you want, make the horizontal steps with a level, presto. Template for staircase. |
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When I'm right, you benefit.
![]() I had Sho up just before we left this morning to review everything, stairs etc. I even showed him my PM to you where I made the suggestion about stiffening up the wall facing thickness and painting the metal bar with epoxy (he suggested 'All Purpose') and tieing the metal bar from the facing in to the house posts so he knows about that. I suggest you send the whole lot of anything you want done to Tito. He is more likely to understand the math involved and give instructions for a workable form to Sho and Uncle Iking who is our most expert form builder. I know how I'd do it and I'm interested to see if he does something like. Just for yucks I'll tell you how I'd do it. I'd determine the height of the wall and divide by the 8" rise of each step. That would tell me how many there are. Then I'd multiply that # by the 1' step to determine where the steps will end and landing begin starting one meter in from the big rocks of the BBall. Then I'd start making pours 8" high and as long as needed and repeat until done moving 1' in each time. Alternately I'd make a form maybe 32" or 40" high with cavities for several 8" steps to increase the size of the pours, but either way. Then the upper landing will fall where it will... I took some pics this morning which I hope to upload when Loni gets off the other comp. Also Dolores puts them in 'my pictures' in a much more organized fashion than I ever did last year. Anyway the question pertains to the circumference wall and where it will meet the seawall before the pipe that runs under the street and its gully. (Down the far end) The reason is that Sho wants to put the roots of the metal bars for the posts of the circumference wall into the seawall to give them good footings. There will be maybe 2 or three circumference wall posts deep into the seawall which should stiffen that end up nicely if that's what you want. So, once you have pics you can better decide. You've seen what we did at our place for privacy and how it worked... So, when the pics are up it will be the time. |
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Shoot. I just thought of something.
![]() I designed the interior stairways to have a 45 degree slope--for a meter and a half, they climb a meter and a half, then there's the landing, and the stairs come back, climbing a meter and a half in a meter and a half. This means the stairs are too steep. To be correct, they should climb a meter and a half over about two meters. Gack. Very tired now. I'll think about this problem over night. ![]() |
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