[Frodogzzz]

I have been invited to stay with a friend in the western Ukraine next month, and would be interested in suggestions for places of Orthodox interest - say places related to Kievan Rus', or to the struggle against Uniatism. I thought I had already posted a thread on this a couple of years ago when I had a similar opportunity, but if I did I can't find it.

To be more precise I will be in Bukovina. I might mention that, if it is God's will for me to make it there this time, we already intend to visit Kiev, and the monasteries just across the border in Romania.

I was also wondering what the picture is like at the moment as regards jurisdictions in the area. My understanding is that the whole of the Ukraine is the canonical territory of the MP, but that there are breakaway jurisdictions operating there, which I would not be happy about attending. This is not intended to spark off debate or acrimony, just to make it clear what I am looking for and to ask what state of affairs I can expect to find there.

Any thoughts would be very welcome.

[mudozvonf]

I was in this area last May (but not in Bukovina). In Kiev visit the Kiev-Pechersky Lavra. If possible visit Pochaev which is quite a ways west of Kiev. We also visited Chernigov with its monasteries along with other monasteries and convents and churches throughout central & western Ukraine which were all most wonderful.

Most of the churches in the Ukraine are with the MP, the others with the Metropolitan Filaret autocephalous group. The proportions I am told are about 70%-30% MP/Autocephalous but this could be different according to what areas of Ukraine you are in.

Wherever you go however if you are guided by someone pious & Orthodox you will have a wonderful pilgrimage in the many places you can pray in.

In Christ- Fr Raphael

[eduptultyt]

Thank you, Father. The Lavra is certainly my main destination in Kiev, and I have come to realize that Pochaev is also a must. Chernigov I think is in the other direction, but I will get there if I can.

I am not familiar with Metropolitan Filaret; I was thinking of the self-styled Kiev Patriarchate, but they are presumably not the same thing (if they still exist). But I will do as you say, and be guided.

Your comments give me hope that going to these places will be a blessed experience, and therefore that the trip may happen at last.

[xsexymasterix]

Anthony wrote:

I am not familiar with Metropolitan Filaret; I was thinking of the self-styled Kiev Patriarchate, but they are presumably not the same thing (if they still exist). But I will do as you say, and be guided.
Yes, I meant to say that they are the same.

The head of the Ukrainian Orthodox Church/MP on the other hand is Metropolitan Vladimir.

In Christ- Fr Raphael

[ftpsoft]

My wife and I went to L'vov. It is a very beautiful city, with strong Polish influence. There are also some very beautiful churches there; most are Greek Catholic, I think. The Polish Cathedral is a must see.

There is also a restored ancient Armenian church there.

Regarding the breakaway Orthodox churches in Kiev: visit them. The local Orthodox are aware of the differences, but most go to either whenever. The Vladimir cathedral is very beautiful, and there is the Uspensky(?) monastery which has some stunning icon-work.

Richard

[Promalada]

Thank you, Richard, for these tips. It seems my bus route will take me through L'vov, so I hope I get time to see a bit of it.

Just to clarify my question about jurisdictions, it is not my intention to make judgements on Ukrainian church politics; I was just trying to avoid possible canonical disobedience (or is it disobedience for a layman to visit the churches of other jurisdictions?), and to find out who is currently in possession of what. But I will take your and Fr Raphael's advice, and pretend to know nothing (an act I do quite well ).

[OWV9LSxH]

I have visited Bukovyna and the area is indeed rich in Orthodox spirituality and history. Just top clarify, Bukovyna became part of the Principality of Moldavia around 1400 so the area was not involved in the Uniate mess of the Union of Brest. Bukovyna became part of the Austrian Empire in 1775. because of the very low population, the Austrian government encouraged the immigration of Uniate Ukrainians from Galicia to the southern area of Bukovyna however, the numbers were never significant and the local Orthodox population was traditionally hostile to the Catholic Church.

I would advise you to take the train (N 059 Kiev Pas - Sofia) from Chernivtsi to Suceava (Suchava) across the border in Romania. The train arrives around 1 pm in the afternoon. I can also recommend the Hotel Suceava in downtown on the main street. The hotel also houses a Travel Informormation Office and there is an English speaking person. because of the central location of this hotel you are within walking distance of the Monastery of St. John of Suchava (the patron saint of Bukovyna) and the other historical churches in town. Also the fortress. You will be able to book a tour of the painted monasteries in the Travel Information office or get a map of the area.

Here is an article about the monasteries:

http://www.smithsonianmag.com/issues/2007/june/alfresco.htm

[FredderiK]

Thank you for this valuable information. Unfortunately we decided not to go to Suceava, as my friend is Ukrainian and would have needed a visa. But I still hope to go back there on my own, and your post will be very useful.

My stay in the Chernivtsi region, however, was remarkable in its own right. It was impressive to see how tenaciously the people there have remained faithful to Orthodoxy throughout the Soviet period. Almost every village seemed to be dominated by a large church, usually an Orthodox one, though there were some Uniate churches in evidence as well, presumably the result of the migration in the Austrian period that you describe.