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#2 |
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#5 |
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If the key looks worn drive up to a locksmith and have him cut a key by code.
Will cost about 5 to 40 bucks. A good locksmith can figure out your cut from your worn key Each step of the key gets a number...he then sets his machine to cut your key by code..only takes a few minutes. If he cant do it and insists he needs to have a lock....just go to another locksmith |
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Thanx for all the good tips. I just hate to have the dealer pick my pocket over this but Red, I hear ya. Last time this happened I had just finished grocery shopping and had a trunk full of frozen food. Think I'll put a can of WD40 in the trunk too and have a locksmith (if I can find one) take a look at the key before I take it in. Hopefully, it won't happen before then. Sigh.
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#10 |
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If the wiggling the wheel until it turns doesn't work then you could be looking at a seized ignition barrel. Definitely take it to get looked at, you may, as everyone here said, need new keys. |
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#11 |
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Sure your steering wheel locking isnt stopping at just the right place ?
Next time it does it be sure the steering wheel isnt held against the lock {the wheel should wiggle without hitting the lock}..if it is hitting the lock hold the wheel away from the stop then try the ignition again. Rocking the car shouldnt affect the ignition lock hardly at all.....much less than actively pulling the key in and out etc. Japanese locks are of the wafer variety rather than tumbler {although the term can be used for both}..anyway they tend to wear rather fast and become tolerant of the wear ..but none the less a worn key can become a problem. An old trick is to intentionally accelerate the wear the wafer causes. After you have the key cracked on just past the point of unlock....pull on the key with a couple pounds of force and start working{rotating} the lock to about 20 degrees then back to almost the point of lock position...rotate about 30 times...keep the pull on the key steady and constant. Only do this once as it causes wear on the wafer where it contacts the key itself{from the pull}...our goal is to let the wafers cut a groove into the very soft metal ...thus allowing a sloppier key to operate the lock. Dont pull hard... nor use tools or pull on the keyring. A bare key being pinched hard with a thumb and finger is about right....as said keep the pull steady and constant as repeated pulls will cause wear on the wafer where key contact is made. |
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#12 |
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Hey, I have a question.
Sometimes when I try to turn off the car, my key will only turn part of the way. It gets stuck just before that point where the ignition allows you to take the key out. The car will turn off, but won't let me turn the key that last bit. Sometimes I just start up the car again or move the shift back and forth. Oftentimes, I hear a click, and then I can turn the key all the way and take it out. It's very frustrating. |
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#13 |
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Hey, I have a question. |
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#14 |
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Dude I feel like yall are being way dramatic. I've had like 5 cars and this happens in every car.
The wheel gets locked because you park at a funky angle or something and your ignition and wheel all get locked up. Usually if you put your foot on the brake and just jiggle your wheel then it will unlock. Not opening doors or paying up the ass for a new ignition.... |
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